Antwerp… Belgium’s ‘Capital’ of Cool

18 August 2017, Friday: We have a short journey of approximately 25km from Puurs to Antwerp, which takes us about an hour to complete. At 10.20am we park on Kaai 19 east of the River Scheldt, a few minutes’ walk from the historic centre. Once again Emile leads the way. Our first attraction is ‘Het Steen’ at Steenplein, which is the oldest preserved building in Antwerp. It is located along the River Scheldt near the former peninsula known as ‘De Werf’. With the first stones dating back to the 11th century, it has had many functions throughout the centuries - as prison, residence, saw mill, fish warehouse and museum. A first settlement with earth fortifications was built on the Werf in the 9th century, which subsequently became a fortress. Around the turn of the century (1100-1200) a stone wall and the Steen, one of the fortress’s three gatehouses, were added. The Werf was stripped at the end of the 19th century in order to straighten the Scheldt quays. Today the Steen is the only reminder of the fortress that once stood there.

We continue to the Vleeshuis Museum. The name is derived from the butchers that use to sell their meat from within. The history of the Vleeshuis goes back five hundred years, well into the Middle Ages. Until after the French Revolution the Antwerp meat cutters, the oldest trade in the city, used it as their base. As well as using the building as a guildhall, they also used the listed building as a location to sell their meat. Today this Gothic gem is home to a museum dedicated to music, the City Sounds Museum. From there we make our way to St. Pauluskerk (St. Paul’s Church). The Gothic Church with its Baroque spire is located in the north of the old city centre and is one of the finest Antwerp churches.

We then head to Grote Markt, the historic main square, where Mum has another photo frenzy. Here you can admire the Brabo Fountain, centrepiece of the square, and the magnificent buildings surrounding the square, although it’s not a square – it’s a triangle. The square's triangular shape originates from the municipal ground created during the era of the Franks. The monumental Brabo Fountain depicts the leading character of Antwerp's most famous legend, the mythical hero Brabo. Silvius Brabo, the Roman soldier, according to legend severed the hand of the mythical giant Druoon Antigoon, who lived on the banks of the River Scheldt in ancient times. Druoon was prone to cutting off the hand of those sailors who refused to pay a toll for their passage on the river, at least until Brabo came along and saved the day, thus putting an end to the giant's extortion and giving Antwerp its name, which literally means ‘to throw a hand’. The magnificent sixteenth-century Stadhuis (City Hall) dominates the relatively small Grote Markt. It often has 87 flags of EU member states located on the facade. Grote Markt is probably best known for the beautiful houses of the Guilds. These buildings are relatively new. The original houses were destroyed in the fire of 1576. They were rebuilt in Flemish Renaissance style, but were revamped again in the 19th century, resulting in the current lavishly decorated houses.

As we reach Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal (Cathedral of Our Lady) it starts to rain. This is Belgium’s finest Gothic cathedral and was 169 years in the making (1352–1521). Wherever you wander in Antwerp, its gracious, 123m-high spire has a habit of popping unexpectedly into view and it rarely fails to prompt a gasp of awe. We round Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal and stroll across Groenplaats (another one of Antwerp's prominent squares) where we seek shelter near the statue of the great artist, Peter Paul Rubens. When the rain lifts we wind through the narrow alleys to St. Carolus Borromeuskerk. The church was formerly known for 39 ceiling pieces by Rubens that were lost in a fire when it was struck by lightning on 18 July 1718. The Baroque front of the church sits on Hendrik Conscienceplein. Situated on the other side of the square is the Hendrik Conscience Heritage Library, known as the repository (storehouse) library of the city of Antwerp.

Next on our path is St. Jacobskerk (St. James' Church), a 15th-century flamboyant Gothic church with a Baroque interior. Built as a chapel for medieval pilgrims, it was later enlarged by wealthy merchants and is now best known as the final resting place of the artist Peter Paul Rubens. We end up on the Meir, Antwerp's most famous street. Already a prestigious street lined by elite/aristocrat mansions in the 16th century, the Meir today is best known as the region's and even the country's most important shopping street. Designed for heavy foot traffic, the Meir is very pedestrian-friendly and makes for a lovely stroll, taking in the grand window displays of the shops and the ornate Rococo architecture. The buildings are very elaborate and really attractive. According to us Antwerp now comes in as the second most beautiful city after Prague (so far).

The Meir leads into Leysstraat where we find a Lidl and have lunch at the statue of the 17th century Flemish painter David Teniers the Younger. He was the founder of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, one of the oldest of its kind in Europe. Further up at the top of de Keyserlei we spot Antwerpen-Centraal, which serves as Antwerp’s central train station. Built between 1895 and 1905, this is more than just a utilitarian railway stop. The huge dimensions of its magnificent hall, grand architecture, and elaborate ornamentation give the Antwerpen-Centraal a stately grandeur to rival the Royal Residence, and make it one of the finest stations in not only Belgium, but the entire world. More road works causes us to just glance at it from a distance.

On our way back we pass some museums. The MoMu (ModeMuseum) is the fashion museum of the Province of Antwerp. The Plantin-Moretus Museum, a printing plant and publishing house dating from the Renaissance and Baroque periods, is a printing museum and is associated with the history of the invention and spread of typography. Its name refers to the greatest printer-publisher of the second half of the 16th century, Christophe Plantin (1520–1589). A prominent feature throughout the whole old part of Antwerp are the mid-terraced buildings which date back to the 16th century. We continue to St. Andrieskerk. In the early 16th century the Augustinian Friars built St. Andrieskerk (St. Andrew’s Church) in the popular St. Andrew’s neighbourhood, which today is also the beating heart of the Antwerp fashion industry. Inside the church you can see stunning Baroque altars and 17th-century works of art. The dramatic 19th-century pulpit is a must-see. It is a spectacular wood carving of St. Andrew in his boat (with a diverse and beautifully-carved haul of sea creatures) being called by Jesus.

At 3.20pm we arrive back at Merzy. Our stop for the night is in Ghent and we head out of Antwerpen opting for the N72 rather than the motorway. We arrive at the Watersportbaan in Ghent at 6.15pm which is mainly used for rowing regattas, but also popular for recreational boating. We are greeted by 30 odd campers. We pull up and make ourselves right at home. Tomorrow will be our 3rd long walk in the same amount of days, so after a quick supper we get in bed a.s.a.p. to get some rest.

Het Steen at Steenplein, the oldest preserved building in Antwerp

The statue of De Lange Wapper. He is a legendary giant and trickster whose folk tales were told especially in the city of Antwerp and its neighbouring towns

River Scheldt

Towers and turrets - decorative, fantastical architecture

The gate of Het Steen with the Coat of Arms of the city of Antwerp (top right)

The Vleeshuis Museum, affectionately known as Antwerp’s Bacon Building

St. Pauluskerk with its Baroque spire

Entrance to St. Pauluskerk courtyard

The church's exterior is mainly Gothic, characterized by its plain architecture with little exterior decoration

Crucifix in the courtyard of St. Pauluskerk

The magnificent sixteenth-century Stadhuis (City Hall)

Brabo Fountain - Meet Silvius Brabo

Flags of EU member states located on the facade of the Stadhuis

Beautiful houses of the Guilds

Grote Markt, lined with delicious gingerbread houses (the houses of the Guilds)

The 123m-high spire of the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal visible from Grote Markt

Belgium’s finest Gothic cathedral which took 169 years to complete

This 16th-century well in front of the cathedral was used as the neighbourhood's water supply until the end of the 19th century. It is highly decorated with a bronze sculpture of Brabo standing on top of the frame

Some strange 'art' on the square in front of the cathedral

The cathedral's northern tower, which is stone lacework, is 123m high. It’s the pride of the city

Statue of the well-known painter Peter Paul Rubens. He was the first person in Flanders to receive a statue in his likeness

The Baroque front of St. Carolus Borromeuskerk - Hendrik Conscienceplein

Hendrik Conscience Heritage Library

St. Jacobskerk, a 15th-century flamboyant Gothic church

The church is known for the resting place of Rubens

Statue of Antoon van Dyck along the Meir. He was a Baroque artist who became the leading court painter in England

Statue of Flemish painter David Teniers the Younger with the charter of the founding of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp in his hand

Buildings on the Meir - Rococo architecture

Lunch break

Lunch done and dusted, farewell David

Toneelhuis is the largest city theater company in Flanders, located in Antwerp and operating from the historic Bourla-theater

St. Andrieskerk - the exterior is pretty unremarkable

The pulpit is a spectacular wood carving of St. Andrew in his boat being called by Jesus

The church boasts colourful neo-Gothic windows from the 19th century

A treat to be able to get close to the High Altar, an example of Baroque art

Parking for the night in Ghent - Spot Merzy... in the middle right at the back

At the Watersportbaan

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