Ghent, Europe’s Best Kept Secret

19 August 2017, Saturday: Here’s a secret within a secret: Ghent hides away in the middle of Belgium’s big three – Brussels, Bruges and Antwerp… and here is hidden one of Europe’s finest panoramas of water, spires and centuries-old grand houses.

At 9.40am Merzy is locked and Emile is given clear instructions to take us on the shortest route into the old city centre of Ghent. Our first attraction is St. Michael’s Church (Sint-Michielskerk) on the east bank of the Leie, one of Ghent’s three medieval churches. From St. Michael’s Bridge (Sint-Michielsbrug) you are able to see the three towers of St. Nicholas’ Church, the Belfry and St. Bavo’s Cathedral neatly lined up in a row on the other side of the canal. We walk down Korenlei on the west bank of the Leie. Here you can see the Guildhall of the Unfree Sailors. These sailors were employees and were obliged to transfer their loads to ‘free’ ships at the edge of the city. On the facade are anchors and dolphins and on top a gold ship, which serves as a wind vane. Korenlei and Graslei (on the other side of the Leie) forms the charming waterfront and is considered the beating heart of the historic city centre.

At the Castle of Counts us kids are allowed free entry and we make use of the opportunity to explore the only remaining medieval fortress in Flanders with its defense system still virtually intact. As we exit, the monumental gatehouse of the Old Fish Market is situated in the corner of St. Veerleplein Square. The sea god Neptune is displayed on the facade and is, according to myths, keeping watch over the rivers Scheldt and Lys (Leie). Next we enter the Great Butchers Hall. Dad is really impressed by the magnificent and unique wooden truss roof. Hanging from these trusses are hundreds of Ghent’s special cured Ganda hams to whet your appetite.

After exiting we head for Vrijdag Markt Square. Dad points out to Mum the Big Cannon, also referred to as the ‘Big Red Devil’ as a result of its original ox red colour. This cast-iron mammoth weighs 12,500kg and dates back to 1431. Mum finds it unattractive and decides it’s not worth a photo (which she later regrets). On the corner of the square is a 14th century building called Toreken. It is the oldest and most authentic property at Vrijdag Markt Square and still has the market clock which announced the start of the market. It now houses Ghent’s poetry centre. In the centre of the square is a statue of Jacob Van Artevelde. It looks like he is waving a rather odd hello from the past, but in reality Jacob is pointing towards his former ally England, as he managed to undo the boycott of English wool imports. Also situated at Vrijdag Markt Square is the Ons Huis and Bond Moyson complex (the party headquarters and Socialist building). Bon Moyson features Art Nouveau and horseshoe windows, a great example of the eclectic style of architecture.

We pass St. James' Church (Sint-Jacobskerk) on our way to the Town Hall. Here we turn left toward the Castle of Gerald the Devil, which is named after the knight Geeraard Vilain. He earned his nickname as a result of his very dark hair and dark skin. The castle was built in the 13th century and later served as a prison, monastery, orphanage, mental institution, fire station and (to date) State Archives. We walk up Limburgstraat to St. Bavo’s Cathedral (Sint-Baafskathedraal) which has a rich history and therefor houses many art treasures. The attractive St. Bavo’s Square (Sint-Baafsplein) is situated between St. Bavo’s Cathedral, the Royal Dutch Theatre (NTGENT) and the Belfry Tower. The Cloth Hall is situated next to the mighty Belfry. The belfries of Flanders and France were the ultimate symbols of freedom, power and urban prosperity. Ghent’s Belfry symbolizes the city’s independence and proudly holds aloft the alarm bell which served to protect its citizens. Another attraction on St. Bavo’s Square is a fountain with a statue of Jan-Frans Willems in the middle of it. Close by is the open-air City Pavilion, nicknamed ‘the sheep pen’, where I’m able to spread out my fingers and play a few ‘rusty’ tunes on a piano standing in the centre. Adjacent to the City Pavillion is the Roeland Bell which was given a new specially designed base during renovation and construction of the City Pavilion. The concrete base of the Roeland Bell is adorned with Michaël Borremans’ fresco of De Maagd (The Virgin). This is a portrait of a young woman with piercing beams of light projecting from her eyes.

We pass St. Nicholas' Church (Sint-Niklaaskerk) on our way to Graslei, a quay located on the east bank of the Leie. Here Mum goes wild. The Korenstapelhuis dates back to 1200 and has the oldest stepped gable in the world. Next to it is the Tolhuisje (1682) and the Korenmetershuis (1435). The Guildhall of the Free Sailors from 1531 belonged to the sailors who had their own business and were able to sail freely over the rivers Lys (Leie), Scheldt and Lieve into Ghent’s inland port. This building has been under renovation for the past three years (sadly no photo). As we head back to Merzy we follow the Leie and pass the Old Law Courts. 2.50m we’re back at Merzy. What an amazing day. Ghent is definitely Belgium’s, or to us Europe’s best kept secret.

Initially our plan was to sleep at a park4night stop in Bruges, which will be our last city to sightsee, but Emile finds us a spot in nature just past Beernem next to the canal. We stop at 5pm. We have another lovely barbeque and a shower afterwards before getting in bed. It’s the grand finale tomorrow… Bruges here we come.

Over St. Michael's Bridge to St. Michael's Church

Korenlei (left) and Graslei (right) on the banks of the Leie, forming the charming waterfront

Korenstapelhuis (left), Korenmetershuis (right) and Tolhuisje (small building in the middle)

Graslei - quay on the east bank of the Leie

Castle of Counts

Exploring inside

The only remaining medieval fortress in Flanders with its defense system still virtually intact

Column with the sculpture of a Flemish lion - on St. Veerleplein Square

Holding the Coat of Arms

Monumental gatehouse of the Old Fish Market with the sea god Neptune displayed on the facade

Postcard from Belgium... to S.A.

The Great Butchers Hall's magnificent wooden truss roof - hundreds of Ghent’s special cured Ganda hams are hanging from the trusses

The Great Butchers Hall

Beautiful architecture

Statue of Jacob Van Artevelde in the centre of the Vrijdag Markt Square

The Ons Huis and Bond Moyson complex (the party headquarters and Socialist building)

Toreken, a 14th-century building, is the oldest and most authentic property at Vrijdag Markt Square

St. James' Church

One of the corners of the Town Hall - this part has an ornate Gothic design

The Castle of Gerald the Devil

The Belfry and Cloth Hall

St. Bavo's Cathedral

Interior of St. Bavo's Cathedral

Fountain on St. Bavo's Square with a statue of Jan-Frans Willems in the middle of it

Royal Dutch Theatre (NTGENT)

St. Nicholas' Church

Spreading out my fingers to play a few 'rusty' tunes at the open-air City Pavillion

Roeland Bell

Adorned with Michaël Borremans’ fresco of De Maagd (The Virgin)

The Town Hall is one of the most breathtaking buildings in Ghent. This part of the building (on Botermarkt Square) was built in a Renaissance style

The Town Hall and Clock Tower of the former Post Office

Korenmetershuis

Tolhuisje

Guildhall of the Unfree Sailors (on Korenlei) with anchors and dolphins on the facade and a gold ship on top

St. Michael's Church with St. Michael's Bridge in front

All three towers of St. Nicholas’ Church, the Belfry and St. Bavo’s Cathedral neatly lined up in a row

Our spot in nature

Just past Beernem next to the canal

Finishing off an amazing day with a scrumptious barbecue

#Belgium